Puppy Proofing the house
Before you pick up your new standard poodle puppy it's a good idea to decide where he or she will be allowed to venture in your house. You will want them to be where you spend most of your time so that you can watch for potty signs and also teach your new puppy what they can and can't do. You can utilize baby gates to block off rooms if you don't want to close doors completely. You will probably want to be sure there are a limited number of "no's" around. In other words if you have potted plants on the floor, cords draping here and there within the puppy's reach, shoes laying about, books on the floor---well you get my point! You don't want to have to spend the first days scolding and saying "no" constantly so my advice is have some "no" items around but also have plenty of "yes" items such as chew bones, toys etc. When your little one starts to chew the t.v. extension cord make a loud "ehhh-ehhh" noise to get their attention and when they moves away from the " no " item, praise them "good puppy " and give them a "yes" item. This way if you introduce the "no"s gradually life will be a lot more pleasant for the whole family. Speaking of family, you probably won't want to let the puppy run free in the kids rooms unless you have puppy proofed them completely. There are other rooms in the house that may be dangerous and should be off limits without close supervision such as the garage, utility room etc. These places are notorious for having things laying about on the floor that could poison a puppy.
If you are home and doing chores, one way to keep an eye on the puppy and lead train him at the same time is to put a 6 ft. lead on him and loop it through your belt or around your waist and that way he goes where you go and you can train him and get things done at the same time.
Potty Training your new puppy
So you have arrived home with your little (or not so little) bundle of joy. You've may have made a long drive and hopefully the little tyke hasn't thrown up on you more than twice. The first thing you should do is take the puppy immediately to the "potty place". The "potty place" is the spot that you have decided you want your little one to do their business. You need to think this out in advance and it should be a place close enough to the door your puppy will be going out so that you can see them, but far enough away that you don't have the "results" in your face 24/7. Even though you will be proud of their success it could get old in a hurry! Always tell your new puppy to "go potty" or whatever your favorite term is, but be consistent and everyone in the family should use the same term. Don't play with them while you are waiting on them to go. They shouldn't have any distractions at this time. If they get distracted, repeat the command after a few minutes. When they go, praise they excitedly and give them lots of attention. Soon they will get the idea. ( After all Standard Poodles are very smart ) Don't put paper down in the house. This will just delay their transition to the outside. By the time you take your new puppy home they have had experience going outside to potty but newspaper on the floor will remind them of when he was younger and didn't go outside but did it on the paper. Don't leave food and water available all of the time until they have been completely house trained for a month or two. Your new puppy will most likely be needing three meals a day when they first go home with you so put the food and water down for about 20-30 minutes in the morning, noon and night. Then take them out to potty about 15-30 minutes after eating and drinking. You may give them water at other times throughout the day but always take them out to potty right after they drink. Your puppy may not go every time, but you are establishing a habit for them and they will soon learn where they need to do their business.
If your puppy has an accident in the house, don't make a fuss about it just scoop them up immediately and take them outside to the potty place and give them the command. Your puppy may not do anything because they have already done it in the house, but they will get the idea. The clean up should be done without your puppy around ( they shouldn't observe your apparent interest in their evacuations). It's best to always use Odo-ban or some product that kills the smell, not just the stain. Odo-ban can be used on carpets, furniture, vinyl etc. and kills something like 99% of the bacteria and removes the stain. Most importantly, when used properly, the animal will not be able to smell where it went. When an animal smells where it pottied before it naturally goes there to do it in the future. That's one reason that when the house training is completely finished and successful you should get your carpets cleaned professionally. That way there won't be any unpleasant reminders for you or your dog.
I would advise that with an 8-12 week old puppy, you take it out to the potty area about every hour if possible. You will get your cue from the puppy when they have the idea and your puppy will wait until they go outside to eliminate. You should put your puppy in a crate overnight and during the day when you are not able to watch them. Your puppy will not go potty in their crate unless they are sick or have been left there too long. Always be sure your puppy goes potty outside right before you crate them and they should be able to hold it for several hours. When your puppy is 8 weeks old it may only be able to " hold it" for four or five hours but soon they should be able to wait for the whole night and by 12-14 weeks they should be okay in the crate for up to eight hours while you are at work. Your poodle puppy is without doubt one of the smartest dogs in the world and you should have a pretty easy time house training them if you follow these simple steps ..
What to feed ...
I feed all Natural grain free puppy food to my puppies. It is important to feed a high quality food that has a low protein content but plenty enough fat for a standard poodle puppy to grow into a healthy adult. Standard poodles should grow slowly, as they are a large breed taking 2 yrs to mature and it is not healthy for their joints or other body structures to grow too quickly, and too much protein will cause them to grow to quickly!
The Positive Experience of "Crating"
Initially when I got my first dog ( many years ago now), the idea of crating was uncomfortable to me. And you may also feel that way now. I looked at it as putting my new family member in a small, confined space. Well, it wasn't long before I learned how important this piece of real estate was to my pup. I now look at the crate through dog eyes. It's his private area, and when he enters it, its as if an imaginary sign goes up "do not disturb." It is a safe place to keep your new puppy while at work or busy around the home .. You should never use the crate as a form of punishment or for extended periods of time.
Crating is very beneficial in house breaking your pup as well. Your pup will not " go " where it has to sleep. The first couple of nights when you go to bed... put the crate in a quiet area of the house, you may choose to have the crate in your bedroom. The puppy may whine, as they sometimes do, remember to just stick to your guns, they will quiet down . If the puppy continues whining for an extended period of time ( more than 10 minutes ,you can place your fingers through the door grate to let him know that you are right there. This often quickly quiets them. . If the pup continues to whine from there, you can reach over, tap the side of the crate and softly talk to him, letting him know that everything was ok.
At the end of the first week, the placement of the crate becomes less important and became a more and more comfortable place for my puppy. During the day, you can move the crate in the rooms where you are . I always kept a favorite toy in the crate and from time to time we would put a tasty treat in there when he wasn't looking. You can see how the crate became not only a safe place, but a fun place for him to check out and see what kind of goodies were made available to him.
I hope crating your dog will be as positive an experience for your dog as it has been for ours. Feel free to contact me with any further questions .
Vaccine Schedule
Critical information about the next few weeks and life of your puppy
Crucial information about Parvo , Distemper, ETC.
NOTE: It takes 24 hrs. for a shot to take effect!!!!
If your puppy has not had 4 puppy booster shots (5-way), rabies shot and bordetella vaccine, then your puppy is NOT covered ,meaning that there is a possibility that he/she can catch parvo, distemper, rabies, etc. Your puppy can get extremely sick and may die, so please take extra precautions below.
NOTE: It takes (up-to) 7 years for parvo to leave the ground where once contaminated!!!
DO NOT SUBJECT YOUR PUPPY TO:
1. A walk around the block - parking lot - pet store - dog park - doggy restaurant - nose to nose with other dogs any store - dog class - grooming shop
2. Family and friends dirty shoes: Have Everybody take their shoes off outside or an outside porch as to not contaminate your floor with parvo and distemper tracked in on your shoes from the gas station, grocery store or anywhere!!
3. Dirty hands: Everybody get used to washing your hands with antibacterial soap or hand sanitizer before picking up your lovely puppy! You may want to buy several hand sanitizers and place them in convenient, noticeable places so you all remember to put it on, such as near the puppies crate, by the front door for visitors, in the kitchen, bathrooms, etc.
4. Veterinarians floor: Always hold your puppy in your arms, you never know what dog just came into the vets office that day or right before you or during your visit with a dog that has parvo, etc.
5. Veterinarian’s examining table: Nicely ask the vet or vet tech if the table was sanitized with Parvosol. Remember, You are subjecting your little puppy that has NO Immune System to ward off any disease as your older dogs do.
It’s like taking your human baby into the hospital where he/she can come down with a horrible painful sickness!!
6. Dirty door handles: Sanitize all your door knobs including refrigerator door handles and all water faucet handles. Scrub floors with bleach water. Vacuum rugs thoroughly.
7. DO NOT buy Raw hides, any rope toys, stuffed dogs toys, and stuffed dog pillows. It is known to veterinarians that several dogs need surgery and/or die from the stuffing, etc. The foreign object gets lodged in the intestines!!
8. Only purchase: Nyla-bones, Kong Balls and Kong Bones, these are the safest!
9. DO NOT: Play rough tug of war with your puppy, it may cause his/her bite to go off (as in over bite or under bite.) , or damage their puppy teeth
Crucial information about Parvo , Distemper, ETC.
NOTE: It takes 24 hrs. for a shot to take effect!!!!
If your puppy has not had 4 puppy booster shots (5-way), rabies shot and bordetella vaccine, then your puppy is NOT covered ,meaning that there is a possibility that he/she can catch parvo, distemper, rabies, etc. Your puppy can get extremely sick and may die, so please take extra precautions below.
NOTE: It takes (up-to) 7 years for parvo to leave the ground where once contaminated!!!
DO NOT SUBJECT YOUR PUPPY TO:
1. A walk around the block - parking lot - pet store - dog park - doggy restaurant - nose to nose with other dogs any store - dog class - grooming shop
2. Family and friends dirty shoes: Have Everybody take their shoes off outside or an outside porch as to not contaminate your floor with parvo and distemper tracked in on your shoes from the gas station, grocery store or anywhere!!
3. Dirty hands: Everybody get used to washing your hands with antibacterial soap or hand sanitizer before picking up your lovely puppy! You may want to buy several hand sanitizers and place them in convenient, noticeable places so you all remember to put it on, such as near the puppies crate, by the front door for visitors, in the kitchen, bathrooms, etc.
4. Veterinarians floor: Always hold your puppy in your arms, you never know what dog just came into the vets office that day or right before you or during your visit with a dog that has parvo, etc.
5. Veterinarian’s examining table: Nicely ask the vet or vet tech if the table was sanitized with Parvosol. Remember, You are subjecting your little puppy that has NO Immune System to ward off any disease as your older dogs do.
It’s like taking your human baby into the hospital where he/she can come down with a horrible painful sickness!!
6. Dirty door handles: Sanitize all your door knobs including refrigerator door handles and all water faucet handles. Scrub floors with bleach water. Vacuum rugs thoroughly.
7. DO NOT buy Raw hides, any rope toys, stuffed dogs toys, and stuffed dog pillows. It is known to veterinarians that several dogs need surgery and/or die from the stuffing, etc. The foreign object gets lodged in the intestines!!
8. Only purchase: Nyla-bones, Kong Balls and Kong Bones, these are the safest!
9. DO NOT: Play rough tug of war with your puppy, it may cause his/her bite to go off (as in over bite or under bite.) , or damage their puppy teeth
The A B O - Puppy Aptitude Test
The A B O - Puppy Aptitude Test
Basically, there are three types of Dogs for the purpose of this test. "Alpha, Beta and Omega." There are various levels within in each category, and we suggest seeking to own a good Beta dog.
What then is the basic difference between categories? Primarily, an Alpha dog is one that will incessantly try to be a pack-leader. You may be in store for years of constant confrontation and challenges as to who will lead the pack. Size of dog does not matter, as we have seen toy terriers run the house. Alpha dogs require strong leadership, not only from the owner, but from the rest of the family, or else an Alpha will continually work its way up the pack, at the chagrin of lower echelon members (who are most likely to be the children). An Omega is the exact opposite. Sometimes you can tell an Omega dog by the following (although it also can indicate a socialization problem). Lightening or thunder strikes, and the animal is found hiding under a bed . . . you go to pet an omega dog, it may cower . . . or yell at it, and it may roll over and urinate. One of the dangers of an Omega dog is "fear biting". We have put this test together for you in order to provide you with a tool to identify the personality type of the dog you are considering. It is by no means foolproof, but hopefully it will help you find a better companion.
Don't disregard structure, health and who you are buying your dog from. Within the pack, Alpha, Beta, and Omega dogs get along fairly well. It's humans that have a problem. For example, take a macho-type personality who wants a Pit Bull, and the Pit Bull turns out to be a sweetheart Omega. The macho-type will want an aggressive animal as opposed to a gentle one. We then have a very unhappy marriage.
Remember, when performing the next Seven tests, you are looking for a dog who scores as a high "B". Chances are that this dog will work with you, forgive you your errors, and respect you as pack leader, without being overly insecure in its role. Try to observe your new pup on more than one occasion, and during different times of the day. We suggest performing these tests on at least two separate occasions.
In all of the following tests, bring the puppy to a quiet, neutral ground site, away from the litter if possible. (Your home might be a good choice, if the breeder will allow it, and if there are not any other dogs at home). These tests do not need to be performed in numerical order. Score results.
Legend: A: Alpha tendencies B: Beta tendencies O: Omega tendencies
Test Number 1
Watching your puppy, walk away without saying anything.
A: Puppy follows with tail up and bites at your feet or leg.
AB: Puppy follows with tail up and get in your path, or between you legs.
B: Puppy follows with tail down.
BO: Puppy follows, but uncertainty.
O: Puppy does not follow, or wanders away.
Test Number 2
Wad a piece of white paper into a ball. Shake it in front of the puppy, then throw it a short distance away.
A: Puppy takes the paper and runs off.
AB Puppy runs to the paper, sniffs but does not pick it up.
B: Puppy runs to the paper and brings it back.
BO: Puppy runs to the paper, picks it up and waits on your movement.
O: Puppy ignores the paper or wanders off.
Test Number 3
Pick the pup up until the feet are off the ground approximately 6 inches. Hold the puppy for approximately half a minute or so, then gently place it on the ground.
A: The puppy struggles, growls and bites.
AB: The puppy struggles or growls.
B: The puppy struggles a little while, then settles in, maybe licks your hand.
BO: The puppy struggles minimally, then goes limp.
O: The puppy hangs limp without a struggle, and may lick you throughout the ordeal.
Test Number 4:
Firmly, without hurting the pup, stroke it from head to rump. Do this for about 15 to 20 seconds.
A: The puppy jumps on you, bites or growls.
AB: The puppy jumps on you or paws your hand.
B: The puppy squirms or licks your hand
BO: The puppy rolls over.
O: The puppy goes away and doesn't come back. (If this happens, wait 10 to 15
minutes before starting new tests)
Test Number 5:
Watching your puppy, walk away without saying anything. Gently hit your thigh with enthusiasm, or wave your hands toward you.
A: The puppy comes with tail up and bites at your hands, feet or leg.
AB: The puppy comes with tail up, and paws your hand.
B: The puppy comes with tail down, and licks your hands.
BO: The puppy comes uncertainly, or rolls on its back.
O: The puppy does not come, or wanders away
Test Number 6:
Gently, roll the puppy on its back, and hold it down by the chest for 15 to 20 seconds.
A: The puppy vehemently struggles, and may bite.
AB: The puppy strongly struggles.
B: The puppy struggles a little while, then settles in.
BO: The puppy struggles minimally, and is then submissive.
O: The puppy does not struggle. May lick your hands.
Test Number 7:
Step back and observe the puppy. Evaluate structure and enthusiasm. Use your sixth sense or intuition. Is this puppy
A: One that would be difficult to bond with.
AB: One you are uncertain about bonding.
B: One you sense you can readily bond with.
BO: One you sense will be a little too dependent.
O: One that will require to be with you constantly because of insecurity.